Category Archives: Countries

Grange des Pères rouge

The vineyard of Grange des Pères is in an unlikely place. Close to the village of Aniane the plot of land was limestone with some clay underneath at 300 meter height. It needs dynamite and bulldozing to make the poor soil ready for vines. Laurent Vaillé cultivated this land in 1989 and placed Cabernet Sauvignon vines on this land from Domaine Trévallon in the Provence (where he used to work) and from Gérard Chave in the burgundy he bought Syrah, Marsanne and Mourvèdre vines. The land was already owned by his family but largely not used for winemaking. Because of the use of Cabernet Sauvignon the wine is classified as an IGP.

The wine is a combination of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cabernet Sauvignon and Counoise. He also makes a white made of Roussanne, Marsanne and Chardonnay but that wine is extremely difficult to find, even more difficult than his red. The wine speaks for itself and that is why he has no website and rarely allows visitors on his domain. Of course, even without this marketing alle the wine is sold long before it is bottled. The land is quite close to Mas Daumas Gassac, another visionary that early on saw the potential of this terrain in the Languedoc. If ever someone needs proof that the Languedoc can be much more than just being the supplier of large quantities of bulk wine, proof is here. He works with low yields of 20Hl/Ha.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The wine is fermented in steel tanks and than aged separately by grape type in barriques for 24 months on their lees. Assembly is done just before bottling.

And than the wine. This is really an exceptional wine. I tasted the 2012 (Summer 2017) as well as the 2014 (Februari 2018). the fragrance of the wine is incredibly delicate but at the same time overpowering. Violets, bit of spice and elegant berries. This is the kind of wine where I am hesitant to start drinking and just keep enjoying sniffs that are promising the reward when drinking. On the palate it is an intriguing mix between the structure of the Cabernet Sauvignon, the elegance of the Syrah and the more edgy taste of the Mourvèdre that makes it so much more interesting than many others. the taste lots of fresh fruit but in a mature way, some spice and mint in the end and of course a long lingering aftertaste. Tannins are round and pleasant. It is a wine that needs to be sipped slowly and attentively with long periods of sniffing in between. RATING: 95

REGION: Languedoc, Terrasses du Larzac. A region with lots of hills, dry with lots of hard rock and a mountainous climate.

VINEYARD: Biodynamic/Organic farming without interest in certification. 11 Ha (10 red) and 300 meter high.

GRAPES: Syrah (40%), Mourvèdre (40%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), Counoise (10%)

CELLAR: Destemmed, 1/3 new oak and aged in Barrique on the lees for 24 months. Assembly before botteling, no filtration.

Guímaro: Finca Capeliños

Before 1991 the family of Pedro Rodriguez did make wine but mainly used for local use. Around that time more effort was placed in the creation and professionalisation of the Ribeira Sacra D.O. The Ribeira Sacra is a region in the northern part of Spain where wine culture goes back to the monks of the 12th century. The landscape looks a bit like the Mosel with high and steep (72 degrees) hills with a meandering river below (the Sil). Many of the vines here are easily a 100 years old.

Adegas Guímaro (“rebel”) is the name of the company producing several wines in this region. The reds are dominantly made of the Mencia grape with a maximum of 15% others (probably Gernacha?). Total production is a little over 5000 cases but 4000 of these are the more simple Tinto.

The Capeliños is one of his two top line wines, the other being the Pombeiras of which only 100 cases are made a year. The first thing you notice in the wine is a distinct animalistic base flavour (because of the natural yeast I guess) but coupled with an explosion of fresh red fruits and some elegant spices. To me this wine is always the perfect marriage between the elegance of a Burgundy Pinot Noir and the robust structure of a Cote Rôtie Syrah. On the palate it is very fruit driven but made more interesting by the raw edge to the wine. It is a wine that is hard to stop drinking. The aftertaste lingers long with an increasing spicy taste but always accompanies with a fresh, almost mineral base. RATING: 92

REGION: Galicia, Ribeira Sacra, Amandi. A region not unlike the Mosel with it’s steep hills and soil of slate. Hot summers and wet winters (700mm around the Sil river). This area is also more contental than other Ribeira Sacra areas.

VINEYARD: Organic farming, most work by hand due to the steep hills. 0,6 Ha vineyard. 3oo to 500 meters high

GRAPES: Mencia

CELLAR: whole cluster including stems, wild yeast, long fermentation, 13 months in barriques, minimal sulphur. 160 cases produced.

Oostenrijk

900px-Flag_of_Austria.svgOostenrijk heeft een rijke wijncultuur, die teruggaat tot de tijd van de Kelten en de Romeinen!. Het is een veelzijdig wijnland, dat zowel op het gebied van mousserende, droge witte wijnen, rosé wijnen, volle rode wijnen als ook zoete wijnen veel interessants te bieden heeft. aan de wijnliefhebber. Er zijn momenteel veel geëngageerde jonge wijnboeren actief, die internationaal grote furore maken met hun wijnen. Niet voor niets noemde wijnschrijver Huli>recht Duijker Oostenrijk “het opwindendste wijnland van Europa”. De Oostenrijkse wijnen vinden in Nederland vooral hun weg naar de betere restaurants en gespecialiseerde wijnwinltels. Dit heeft. vooral te maken met het kwalitatief hoogwaardige karakter van de Oostenrijkse wijnen en de kleinschaligheid van de wijnproductie. De wijnbouwgebieden van ostenrijk hebben totaal ca. 52.5 0 0 hectare wijngaard. In vergelijking met Frankrijk is dat ca. de helft van de Bordeaux. Hiermee neemt Oostenrijk de 18-de plaats in op de wereldranglijst en produceert het ca. 1 % van de wereldproductie aan wijn. Gemiddeld genomen hebben de wijnboeren er slechts 1 à 1 ,5 hectare wijngaard en er zijn weinig producenten met meer dfn 25 hectare. De wijnbouw in Oostenrijk is zeer traditioneel. De oogst gebeurt vrijwel uitsluitend handmatig en veel producenten werken (grotendeels) biologisch.